Vegetable farming takes root in Seattle-area food desert

“The grocery store may be 2 miles away,” Wurttele-Brissolesi said, describing what shopping can be like in a food desert. “But to get there, they might have to walk to take the bus, and if they have four to six kids, how are they supposed to bring home enough food on the bus? It’s easier to get a frozen pizza from the corner store.”

Living Well Kent sells the farmers’ produce through a community-supported agriculture program, giving customers access to a range of products based on a subscription or membership fee; and it sets up the weekly market, where shoppers can pay for the vegetables with federal nutritional subsidy benefits like SNAP, the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program.

“In Seattle, the urban agriculture scene can seem like a privileged space when you rely on SNAP benefits,” said Wurttele-Brissolesi, who manages the food access program that supports the immigrant farmers’ work. “You can feel like you don’t belong, and our goal is to help the people who need the most help.”

King County, where Kent is located, is home to Tokul soil, which is one of the world’s most productive soils thanks to fallen ash from the state’s volcanoes. On five acres leased by Living Well Kent, Karanja and nine other immigrant farmers grow crops that include greens, tomatoes, carrots, onions, turnips, radishes and peppers. They also have access to a greenhouse and technical assistance. Tools, seeds and water are free for them.

The city of Kent is one of the most ethnically diverse communities in the country. The farmers themselves represent countries that include Somalia, Zimbabwe and Iraq, so their farming practices are rooted in the Middle East and Africa The group also includes farmers from Mexico and Afghanistan. Living Well Kent encourages them to grow vegetables that are significant in the country where they got their start.